2 Weeks In Georgia – The Perfect Slow Travel Itinerary

VINTAGE SHOP AT METRO VINTAGE
I began my day in the Rustaveli district, immediately stumbling upon Metro Vintage shop right down the block from my hostel. Metro Vintage is located below the Ethno Hotel and has a totally funky vibe. The shop itself is small but packed with vintage gems for prices as low as 10 GEL ($3.50 USD)

VISIT THE OUTDOOR ARTISAN MARKET AT GEORGIAN NATIONAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES BUILDING
Next, I wandered further down Rustaveli Avenue to explore the outdoor artisan market in front of the Georgian National Academy of Sciences building. This market is different every day and offers goods from a variety of artisans. While you’re visiting, make sure to walk behind the market to explore the abandoned Mtatsminda Cable Car Station and Tbilisi’s beautiful Blue House.

WANDER DOWN RUSTAVELI AVENUE TO FREEDOM SQUARE
Rustaveli Avenue is a fashion and design hub of Tbilisi, so I decided to walk the 30 minutes from the outdoor artisan market to Tbilisi’s central Freedom Square. Along the way I popped my head into a variety of funky stores and explored the many outdoor flea markets, and took a quick detour to admire the tiled stairs at the Tbilisi State Academy of the Arts.

EXPLORE TBILISI’S OLD CITY WALL
From Freedom Square, it is only a short walk to Tbilisi’s Old City Wall. The wall was constructed in the 12th century and offers a unique look into Tbilisi’s history, not to mention a unique and somewhat-hidden space to explore. There are a few cafes and restaurants along the Old Wall if you get hungry.

EAT LUNCH AT CAFE DAPHNA
I had to stop for lunch at Cafe Daphna, and I have to say it was some of the best khinkali I had in Georgia. They have both meat and veggie options available, so I made sure to try one of each kind — including cheese and potato, mushroom, and classic minced meat. I spent only 9 GEL for 6 giant khinkali and was so full I had to recover in the nearby 9 April Park afterwards. I also explored the nearby Orbeliani Square Flower Market to help digest.

ADMIRE THE VIEW FROM SIONI CATHEDRAL
I ended up wandering my way to the Sioni Cathedral one of the oldest cathedrals in Tbilisi with beautiful views of the Mtkvari River and Bridge of Peace. Admittedly, my favorite part of this site were the friendly kittens on the front stoop, but the cathedral itself is a beautiful landmark of the Tbilisi skyline. Please note: if you wish to enter the cathedral, shoulders and knees must be covered for men, and skirts and head coverings are required for women.

TAKE A BREAK AT ORGANIQUE JOSPER WINE BAR
Having spent all day on my feet, a break at the nearby Organique Josper Wine Bar was much needed. Located slightly off of the crowded Sioni Street, this bar had plenty of outdoor seating and wine on tap from 7 GEL ($2.50 USD) I enjoyed a glass of white kisi wine and spent a while relaxing, editing photos, and enjoying the people watching.

HIKE TO NARIKALA FORTRESS FOR SUNSET
An icon of the Tbilisi skyline since it’s foundation, the Narikala Fortress is the perfect place to watch the sun set over the city. There are two options for getting there — walking up Orbiri Street or taking the cable car from Rike Park for 2.50 GEL ($0.90 USD). Since I’d already walked plenty that day I figured a little more couldn’t hurt, which ended up not being my best plan as the path was STEEP. However, the views along the way made it worth it, not to mention the beauty of the crumbling cathedral against a pink sky.

EXPLORE SOLOLAKI STREET
Nearby the Narikala Fortress, Sololaki Street is full of street buskers and pop-up stands selling kitschy Georgia trinkets. Before the sun disappeared, I took a little wander down the street listening to the music and admiring the views of the city. Perhaps the most notable attraction off of Sololaki Street is Tbilisi’s famous Mother of Georgia statue.

RETURN TO MOOSICA VIA BUS
Not my best travel move, but I decided to take the bus for the first time after walking all day through Tbilisi. I had read online that you can pay with 1 GEL, but post-COVID this no longer appears to be true. Instead, you’ll need to purchase a Tbilisi transportation card. The card costs 3 GEL and can be purchased at any metro station or at the orange kiosks by most bus stops. Once you have the card, top it off with coins or card and simply tap it on the card reader when entering the buses or metro.

EAT BREAKFAST AT LOLITA
We began our morning at Lolita, a favorite spot of Mariam’s. This cafe was totally up my alley, with a distinctly industrial vibe that I love. Lolita has two distinct personalities — a quirky breakfast spot by day and a bustling dive bar by night. Over a plate of Kikliko — savory Georgian french toast served with mustard and sulguni cheese — Mariam let me know that Lolita was a favorite among locals for it’s nightlife and lattes alike.

EXPLORE THE NATIONAL GALLERY
I’m not usually a museum girl on my travels, but art museums always seem to be the exception. The National Gallery of Georgia is located about a 15 minute walk from Lolita along Rustaveli Avenue, and Mariam happily pointed out city landmarks along the way. The gallery itself is home to a number of permanent and transitioning exhibits, most notably home to a number of works by famous Georgian painter, Niko Pirosmanashvili.

PHOTOGRAPH OLD TOWN MTATSMINDA
I needed to make my way to the Central Bus Station in the south of Tbilisi for my marshrutka, but couldn’t help getting distracted wandering through Old Town Mtatsminda on my way down south. Similar to Old Tbilisi, this area is home to winding alleyways and traditional Georgian architecture, but with an even more off-the-beaten-path feel than the Old Town.

TAKE A BUS TO CENTRAL STATION (ORTACHALA BUS STATION)
Having learned my bus lesson the day before, this time I was prepared with my Tbilisi transportation card and hopped on Bus #547 from Freedom Square, which took me directly to the Central Bus Station. Note that you may hear this station referred to as the Ortachala Bus Station but don’t let that confuse you — they’re the same thing.

TAKE A MARSHRUTKA TO TELAVI
The Central Bus Station was eerily quiet when I arrived, but I found all the marshrutkas parked outside the front entrance on the second level. Most of the marshrutkas had signs in English and Georgian, but I located the Telavi Marshrutka simply by asking “Marshrutka Telavi?” to a group of men sitting outside of one of the bus station cafes. They happily connected me with the right driver and I got my choice of seat.

The marshrutka to Telavi costs 12 GEL per person and there are 13 departures from the Central Bus station every day, beginning at 8:30 and ending at 6:30. I’ve found that the marshrutka schedule in Georgia isn’t an exact science, so I wouldn’t recommend placing all your bets on the last mashrutka of the day. Rather, aim to take one of the earlier marshrutkas and always arrive early — the vans will leave early if full.

ARRIVE IN TELAVI
The marshrutka ride from Tbilisi to Telavi takes about 3 hours, with the final stop outside of the Telavi Bazaar. From here, it is about a 10-15 minute uphill walk to King Erekle II’s Palace, a central landmark of Telavi. My guesthouse was located about 10 minutes from the palace up a steep but quiet street. After arriving, I drank a cup of tea and relaxed for the rest of the night.

RELAX AT GUESTHOUSE LILIA
I began my morning relaxing at Guesthouse Lilia. Owned and operated by Lilia herself, I was treated to fresh mint tea picked straight from the garden and a plate of fresh kisi grapes from the vines hanging in the yard. The guesthouse is home to a spacious porch with beautiful views and I happily got some work done admiring the Caucasus in the distance.

EAT KHINKALI FOR LUNCH AT ზოდიაქო
Recommended by my guesthouse owner, this hole-in-the-wall restaurant by the Telavi State University doesn’t even have an English name, but it’s called ზოდიაქო on Google Maps. Home to traditional Georgian eats and exceptional prices it’s a great place to stop for lunch. Try the khinakli of course — the cheese khinkali was the best I had in Georgia.

DRIVE TO WINE YARD N1
Wine Yard N1 is located about an hour from Telavi, so my guesthouse helped me organize transfer with a local driver named Georgi. He was extraordinarily kind but certainly overcharged me, even after I haggled the price a bit. As a solo traveler I often end up having to pay more for transportation as I don’t have others to split with me, but the final price was still pennies when I consider the time Georgi spent driving and waiting for me. Ultimately, the flexibility was worth the price.

If you’re looking for the cheapest price possible, you might be able to score a better deal by arranging one-way transportation with a taxi. Note you’ll have to arrange your transportation back later in the evening. Taxis gather by the bus stop by the Telavi Bazaar.

LEARN ABOUT THE GEORGIAN WINE-MAKING PROCESS
I arrived at Wine Yard N1 around 3PM. Upon arriving, owner Tika Dugashvili excitedly introduced me to the traditional Georgian wine-making process. We explored the wine cellar and outdoor Kakhetian kitchen, stirred the qvevri wine, and listened to the stories of her grandfather, the man who inspired her business.

HARVEST GRAPES AT WINE YARD N1
After learning about the wine-making process, it was time to harvest the grapes to make the qvevri wine. Wine Yard N1 grows many different kinds of grapes and visitors from around the world are invited to harvest grapes directly from the vines before stomping them in a large wooden satsnikheli.

ENJOY A GEORGIAN SUPRA
After an afternoon of harvesting, Wine Yard N1 invited guests to join them for a traditional Georgian supra, or banquet, enjoying the fruits of the harvest. In traditional rtveli fashion, we enjoyed Mtsvadi barbecue cooked right over a pit of dried grape leaves and danced the night away after many glasses of saperavi.

RETURN TO TELAVI WITH DRIVER
Remember how I mentioned what I paid Georgi felt like nothing when I considered how long he waited for me? Part of the perk of hiring a private driver is the ability to come and go as you wish, and Georgi waited for me the whole time I was at Wine Yard N1 and drove me back to Telavi late that evening. I was very grateful for his kindness and believe hiring a driver is a great option if you want flexibility (especially if you plan to drink!)

EAT BREAKFAST AND RELAX IN TELAVI
In the morning, my guesthouse owner Lilia made everyone Blini, or small Russian pancakes served with her very own homemade jam. They were absolutely delicious, and just another reason I’d highly recommend a stay at Guesthouse Lilia. You can also make your own breakfast in the kitchen of the guesthouse.

VISIT GREMI CITADEL
I wasn’t expected at Keti’s House until the afternoon, so I left early with my driver to visit a few of Kakheti’s most notable sites along the way. First was the Gremi Citadel and Church of the Archangels, the original capital of the Kakheti Region. The citadel and church are free to visit, but do note there is a 30GEL entrance fee if you wish to enter the museum on the property.

TAKE A CHURCHKHELA MASTERCLASS AT KETI’S HOUSE
The next stop was Keti’s house for a Churchkhela masterclass. Keti’s house offers and variety of masterclasses on traditional Georgian cuisines and I signed up to learn to make the sweet Georgian treat using grapes straight from Keti’s yard. I highly recommend participating in one of the masterclasses while you’re in the Kakheti region to get a hands-on look into the delicious Georgian cuisine.

VISIT TO NEKRESI MONASTERY
Before harvest, my driver took me to the Nekresi Monastery, a beautiful ancient monastery high above a hill overlooking the valley and home to a . Entrance to the monastery is free, but the bus to the top costs 3 GEL. It’s definitely worth the price as it cuts off 2km of uphill hiking and has beautiful views along the way!

HARVEST AND GRAPE STOMPING AT SHAVERGE WINE CELLAR
Next it was time to head to the nearby Shaverge Wine Cellar for harvest and grape stomping. First, we wandered through the acres of grapes, filling buckets to the brim. Next, all of the grapes were added to a large bucket, where guests had an opportunity to stomp the grapes while listening to Mravaljamieri, a traditional Georgian folk song.

SUPRA AND WINE TASTING
After harvest, it was time to enjoy the bounty with a Georgian supra. Alongside our meal, Shaverge Wine Cellar offered a tasting of four different types of Georgian wine and two different types of chacha — otherwise known as Georgian tequila! The food was absolutely delicious, much of it grown right on the wine cellar property!

LISTENING TO TRADITIONAL MUSIC
No supra would be complete without music, and Keti and her family eagerly serenaded guests with beautiful Georgian folk songs (over more wine of course!) Keti’s house often partners with local musical acts in the area to demonstrate traditional folk songs to visitors. If you’re interested in having this experience, I highly recommend reaching out to Keti beforehand to inquire about pricing and dates.

RELAX AND WRITE
In the morning, I once again enjoyed the peace and quiet of the balcony at Guesthouse Lilia. As usual, Lilia brought me fresh grapes from the garden and piping hot coffee to sip on as I recovered from a weekend of rtveli celebrations and got some work done. I also made myself a small breakfast in the guesthouse kitchen.

VISIT THE GIANT PLANE TREE
Telavi is extraordinarily proud of their Giant Plane Tree, something I noted as my driver pointed it out to me on every trip out of town. I finally took the chance to visit while exploring Telavi, and while you certainly don’t need much time there it is amazing to consider that this 12-meter-round giant has overlooked the Kakheti Valley for over 900 years.

ADMIRE THE VIEW AT NADIKVARI PARK
Just up the hill from the Giant Plane Tree is Nadikvari Park, a quaint and quiet park with sweeping views of the Caucasus. Enjoy a glass of wine (or a cup of coffee if you’re all wine-d out!) at the Nadikvari Terrace Restaurant and admire the views of Telavi over a steaming plate of khinkali.

EXPLORE THE TELAVI BAZAAR
The Telavi Bazaar is at the heart of the city and is the perfect place to stop for a post-lunch treat or simply explore. With stalls hung with fresh churchkhela and colorful fruit of every variety, it’s the perfect place to get a feel for real life in Telavi as you watch locals haggle for the best deals. Make sure to explore the central fruit market, but also wander around the perimeter for second-hand clothing and Georgian pottery stalls.

WANDER TELAVI OLD TOWN
Telavi’s old town is full of heritage homes, demonstrating the carved Kakhetian balconies that are now known as a staple of Georgian architecture. One of the most beautiful streets to explore is Cholokashvili, a street in the heart of Telavi’s old town home to a number of cafes, shops, and pottery studios. St. Mariam’s Orthodox Church is another beautiful landmark among the cobbled streets.

EAT SHKMERULI AT MEIDANI
By some stroke of fate, there was another American at my guesthouse during my stay in Telavi who invited me to join her and her daughter for dinner on my final night in the city. They took me to a restaurant they’d discovered called Meidani, where I finally had a chance to try Shkmeruli, or roasted chicken served in garlic sauce. The restaurant was located under a shop off of Telavi’s central street and had a cozy, relaxed vibe — not to mention shkmeruli might be my new favorite food in the world.

GET A SWEET TREAT AT CAFE GISHERI
After dinner, we walked to the nearby Cafe Gisheri for desert. With a range of pastries and deserts all ranging from 3-10 GEL, you can’t say no to a buttery croissant or sweet apple tart. The chocolate fudge cake made a great after-dinner treat, plus I still had some left over for breakfast the next morning.

SAY GOODBYE TO TELAVI
In the morning, it was finally time to say goodbye to Telavi. I’d come to love the small city and was disappointed to leave, but eager to explore more of Georgia. Of course, no morning would be complete without one final cup of mint tea, home-grown grapes, and conversation with the lovely host Lilia.

CATCH A MARSHRUTKA TO TBILISI
Marshrutkas to Tbilisi leave throughout the day between 9AM and 9PM and cost 12 GEL. You can also hire a shared taxi for 20 GEL. Both taxis and marshrutkas congregate outside of the Telavi Bazaar and leave regularly throughout the day for Tbilisi. The ride takes about 2-3 hours and generally end at the Tbilisi Central Bus Station. although my driver dropped me close to a metro station so I could continue on.

RIDE THE METRO TO DIDUBE
The Tbilisi metro overwhelmed me at first, but I soon found it quite easy to navigate. A ride costs 1 GEL and can be paid with your Tbilisi transportation card. If you don’t already have one, these can be purchased at the ticket counter at any metro station. While there are two main lines, most travelers can depend on the red line, which runs through the center of the city and takes you directly to the Didube Bus Station stop. To access the bus station, you’ll have to walk out of the metro and pass through an underground market.

LOCATE A MARSHRUTKA TO KAZBEGI AT DIDUBE BUS STATION
The Didube Bus Station is a bit of an overwhelming experience as compared to the quiet Central Bus Station. Not a lot is written in English, but marshrutkas to Kazbegi are located behind the line of shared taxis you’ll first encounter. Simply ask, “marshrutka Kazbegi” and someone should be happy to point you in the right direction. If you don’t mind paying a little extra, I found many taxi drivers approached me with offers to Kazbegi as soon as I left the metro station. Shared taxis typically cost around 30 GEL, whereas my marshrutka cost 15 GEL. There are plenty of vendors selling fresh fruits and veggies as well as snacks and meals, so it’s a great spot to pick up a bite for lunch before your trip.

RIDE A MARSHRUTKA ALONG THE GEORGIAN MILITARY HIGHWAY
The ride to Kazbegi is an adventure in and of itself. The Georgian Military Highway is considered one of the most beautiful highways in Georgia and for good reason — the sweeping mountain landscapes and deep gorges will take your breath away. I will warn you, as the trip continues the roads get windier and the mountains higher, so if you have a fear of heights, I’d recommend a private car or shared taxi to make the ride as comfortable as possible so you can enjoy the views. The ride takes about 2-3 hours.

ARRIVE IN KAZBEGI (STEPANTSMINDA)
You will know you’re nearing Kazbegi as soon as you start to spot more cows than people — they’re quite literally EVERYWHERE! Most marshrutkas and shared taxis deliver passengers to the Kazbegi Bus Station, which is centrally located whether your guesthouse is on the eastern or western side of the river. My guesthouse was about a 10 minute walk from the bus station, which beautiful views of the mountains the whole way.

EAT DINNER AT CAFE 5047M
After relaxing a bit at my hotel, I walked to the nearby Cafe 5047m for dinner. I was simply in search of some warm khinkali and this spot certainly delivered. The khinkali was hot and delicious, however, as compared to other khinkali restaurants I’d visited in Georgia, this place only served platters of one type of khinkali, rather than allowing you to mix and match. Either way, it was an easy spot to eat dinner close to my hotel as I had an early morning the next day.

DRINK TEA AT CAFE GERGETI
I started my trek at 6AM so avoid the crowd, but forgot to make myself a cup of tea before beginning the trek. Luckily Cafe Gergeti is located right along the trail and is open early in the morning, serving hot cups of chai and fresh puri (bread) to hungry hikers. The owner even offered me a stronger drink — the notable Georgian chacha, or wine vodka, which I guess is a popular beverage for 7AM.

HIKE TO THE GERGETI TOWER
The first landmark along the Gergeti Trinity trail is the Gergeti Tower. Coming from Cafe Gergeti, I took the path on the left side of the tower for the easiest hike. The path follows along a trickling stream and as it winds higher, so don’t forget to look behind you for amazing views of the Gergeti Tower.

VISIT THE GERGETI TRINITY CHURCH
The landmark of the hike is of course the Gergeti Trinity Church, located on a mountain overlooking the town of Kazbegi. The church itself is free to enter and is a beautiful example of Orthodox architecture, but women, note that your legs and head must be covered in order to go inside. I packed a lightweight scarf and skirt in my backpack and threw them both on over my hiking tights to explore the church. Photography isn’t allowed within the structure but is certainly allowed outside of it, so enjoy some time wandering around the area and snapping photos of the extraordinary views.

TREK BACK DOWN TO KAZBEGI
There is a new trail back down to Kazbegi that connects with the road, so I opted to take it once I’d finished exploring the church. However, I can’t say I would exactly recommend it. It was extraordinary steep and difficult to manage, so I would recommend taking one of the main trails back the way you came, or paying for a ride down the mountain in one of the shared vans.

EAT LUNCH AT CAFE GERGETI
I had promised my friend Berdia, owner of Cafe Gergeti, that I would return after my hike for late lunch, so I gladly accepted his plate of khinkali upon returning down the mountain. He gave me more chacha too, so I celebrated my hiking achievement in style. Maybe it was my big hike beforehand, but it was easily my favorite khinkali in Georgia.

REST AT HOTEL ELEGANT
I was extremely tried after hiking all morning, so I returned to my hotel to rest and work for the rest of the afternoon. It ended up raining, so I enjoyed sitting on the covered balcony at my hotel and relaxing as the rain fell. I would definitely recommend a restful afternoon after the trek no matter your hiking level.

EAT DINNER AT KAZBEGI GOOD FOOD
Another short walk from my hotel, Kazbegi Good Food was a no-frills, mom-and-pop-run restaurant with delicious Georgian cuisine. It was the perfect place to enjoy some freshly baked Georgian kachapuri (Georgian cheese bread) after a rainy afternoon and sip on a beer to celebrate your hiking successes.

CATCH THE BUS AT MOUNTAIN FREAKS*
Mountain Freaks is a local travel company with daily buses to the Truso Valley starting point at 9:15AM and 11:15AM. Tickets cost 45 GEL per person and include pickup at 4PM and 6PM. One thing to note is that you can only buy your ticket for one time slot, so if you’ve bought the 9:15 ticket it can’t be exchanged for the 11:15 ticket. Tickets are also non-refundable in the case of rain or other weather conditions (which I learned the hard way) Regardless, this is the cheapest way to visit Truso Valley, but if you’re looking for more flexibility, hiring a private taxi might be the best way to go.

HIKE IN THE TRUSO VALLEY*
The Truso Valley is a long but flat hike through one of Georgia’s most stunning landscapes, dotted with colorful sulphuric streams and ending at the beautiful Zakagori Fortress. If you’re interested in doing the trek, here’s a great hiking guide from Going the Whole Hogg. I can’t wait to return and try again some day.

GET PRODUCTIVE AT COZY CORNER
With the thunderstorm raging around me, I decided to make the day a productive one and find a place to stay cozy. Luckily I found the perfect spot, “Kazbegi Cozy Corner.” This restaurant totally lives up to it’s name with a warm interior and plenty of hearty Georgian food. The wifi is free and strong, so it’s the perfect place for the digital nomad to relax and get some work done, or to enjoy a comforting Georgian meal.

EAT KACHAPURI ADJARULI
It was finally time for me to try the famous Kachapuri Adjaruli, and I’m so glad I did at Cozy Corner. This famous Georgian cheese bread is created with tangy sulguni cheese, then baked and served with an egg yolk and a pat of butter to be mixed at the table. The friendly waiter at Cozy Corner showed me how to properly mix the ingredients and I have to say it was decadent.

EXPLORE THE TOWN OF KAZBEGI
Once the rain had ceased, I decided to wander around the town of Kazbegi a bit more and capture some street photography with the newly snow-capped mountains. The town itself is small, but if you have an eye for photography you’ll enjoy the eclectic homes and mountain views at every step. Not to mention there are plenty of cows to pose for you!

CATCH A MARSHRUTKA TO TBILISI
From the Kazbegi bus station, catch a marshrutka back to Tbilisi for 15 GEL. Note that marshrutkas leave on the hour ever hour between 7AM and 6PM, but I’d recommend arriving at least 20 minutes before departure to ensure you get a seat. Otherwise you’ll be left waiting for the next minivan or hiring a taxi to take you down the mountain. I took the 8AM marshrutka and arrived in Tbilisi around lunchtime.

TAKE THE METRO FROM DIDUBE TO CENTRAL TBILISI
Back in Tbilisi, I once again found myself back at the chaotic Didube Station. Luckily I knew how to access the metro this time, and easily navigated my way back to the station and hopped on the red line to Liberty Square. From the square, my hostel was a short 10 minute walk through Old Town Tbilisi.

EAT KHINKALI AT VELIAMINOV
Somehow I still wasn’t sick of Khinkali yet, so after relaxing and unpacking at my hostel, I walked over for a quick bite to eat and stumbled upon Veliaminov. This moody, locally-owned underground eastery serves a variety of Georgian cuisine, so if you’re feeling like mixing it up you can also try the nigvziani badrijani — fried eggplant with garlic paste, or a refreshing Georgian salad. This place is no frills, so note you need to pay with cash.

EXPLORE THE ABANDONED KARMIR AVETARAN CHURCH
I love abandoned places, so when I read there was an abandoned Armenian church in Old Tbilisi with epic sunset views, I had to visit. This Karmir Avetaran Church is located on the eastern side of the Mtkvari River and is walkable from Old Town Tbilisi. It’s easy to enter and explore, but do watch your step as this building is abandoned, meaning some of the footing is unstable. However, with a view of the Narikala Fortress and the Tbilisi skyline, it’s a pretty extraordinary spot to watch the sun go down.

RELAX WITH A SULFUR BATH
The name “T’bilisi” actually means “warm place,” as Tbilisi is built on top of natural sulfur springs. Tbilisi’s Abanotubani neighborhood is still home to a number of sulfur baths, both with public and private options. Here’s a great article breaking down many of the sulfur baths in Tbilisi, as well as some etiquette to consider before visiting.

EAT PAN-ASIAN AT FIREWOK
I stumbled upon Firewok near my hostel and genuinely wish I’d found this place sooner. For only 10 GEL, they whipped up a fresh carton of udon noodles loaded with veggies and a tasty szechuan sauce, and I still had plenty left over to eat for lunch the next day. Asian food is my absolute favorite, so I was in heaven.

PICK UP A FRESH KACHAPURI FOR BREAKFAST
I’m slightly ashamed of how much kachapuri I ate in Georgia, but with the freshly made cheese bread available on almost every street corner for 2-3 GEL, I couldn’t resist snacking on one for breakfast on my way to the Dry Bridge Market. My favorite spot was located in the underpass right by Liberty Square.

GO SHOPPING AT THE DRY BRIDGE MARKET
Located only a 10 minute walk from Liberty Square is Tbilisi’s famous Dry Bridge Market. This flea market has been a staple of the city since the 1990s and is home to a number of unique finds — from Georgian textiles to Soviet-era cameras. Named as it is literally located on a “dry bridge” above Mtkvari River, the market happens daily, rain or shine. I ended up scoring a small film camera (film included!) for only 15 GEL.

EXPLORE THE DESERTER BAZAAR
Next, I hopped on bus 320 to the Deserter Bazaar. One of Tbilisi’s largest food markets, the Deserter Bazaar is home to a bustling hub of vendors selling everything from freshly ground spices to live fish brought straight from the Black Sea. It’s a fascinating place to explore and photograph and you can easily spend all day wandering it’s alleys — it covers over 2,000 square meters. It’s also the perfect place to place to pick up some snacks, as many vendors are eager to share their goods. I picked up some plums and freshly baked bread with sulguni cheese for only a few lari.

VISIT THE TBILISI ART FAIR
Remember Mariam, my art-loving Georgian friend? She let me know that I was in Tbilisi for TAF — or the Tbilisi Art Fair. She invited me to join her and check out some of the artwork, so I hopped on bus 504 and joined her at Expo Georgia for the festival. Admission was 20 GEL, but was an extraordinary look at the art culture of Georgia and gave visitors the opportunity to meet the artists themselves. TAF is a yearly occurrence, so if you’re interested in visiting I highly recommend checking out their website.

WINE AND DINE AT 8,000 VINTAGES
For dinner, Mariam took me to a local favorite – 8,000 Vintages. True to it’s name, this spot is home to thousands of wines from all over Georgia, not to mention the most delicious cheeseboard I’ve ever tried in my life. We split a bottle of white Kisi wine and tasted glasses of two other varieties for only 40 GEL each. If you go anywhere to try wine in Georgia, go here. We went to the Vake location, but there are three locations around Tbilisi.

TAKE A SHARED TAXI TO GORI
At this point I was quite familiar with the Didube Bus Station, so I easily navigated there from Liberty Square. Since it was the final day of my trip, I opted for a spot in a shared taxi to Gori, which cost 10 GEL and took 1 hour. Marshrutkas are also available for 4 GEL and take closer to 1.5-2 hours travel time. My shared taxi dropped us off right in front of the Stalin Museum in the center of town.

PICK UP A COFFEE AND CROISSANT
It was a bit of a chilly day in Gori, so I picked up a hot coffee and croissant at a breakfast restaurant right by the Stalin Museum. The restaurant had no name in English, but was called სწრაფი კვება ნიკორა კაფე in Georgian, and had a delicious latte for only 3.50 GEL that kept me warm all morning.

VISIT STALIN’S BIRTH HOME
I opted not to monetarily support the Stalin museum, and instead opted to wander the free attractions outside. One of these spots is Stalin’s birth home, located just outside the museum. The small wooden hut is the last remaining in a line of similar dwellings and is where Stalin spent the first four years of his life in Gori. Nearby, you can also view Stalin’s green railway carriage and an eerie statue of the dictator looking out over the park.

VISIT UPLISTSIKHE CAVE CITY
My next stop was the Uplistsikhe Cave City, the oldest cave city in Georgia. Located about 15 minutes outside of Gori, I was under the impression that there was a 2 GEL bus from the Gori Bus Station, but upon calling a taxi to take me to the station, I learned this bus is no longer running post-COVID. My driver offered to take me to Uplistsikhe and back for 35 GEL, so thinking of no other option I agreed. This price could certainly be reduced if traveling with others, so go with a group if you want to save money.

Entrance to Uplistsikhe costs 15 GEL. They will offer you a 20 GEL ticket that includes a wine tasting at the wine cellar, but I opted for the lower price. You can also purchase an audio guide for 15 GEL. The Uplistsikhe Cave City itself is extraordinary and features sweeping views of the valley amongst the ancient cave walls.

EAT AT FISH HOUSE RESTAURANT
After exploring Uplistsikhe, I returned to my taxi and asked my driver for a lunch recommendation. He was asked me if I liked fish, and the next thing I knew we were winding back through the city to Fish House Restaurant. This restaurant is on an active fish farm, so the fish is as fresh as it gets. I’m not usually a fish person, but I tried the grilled fish with a decadent pomegranate sauce and I have to say my mind has changed.

VISIT THE MEMORIAL OF GEORGIAN WAR HEROES
My taxi driver kindly drove me back to the Gori City Center, where I visited the Memorial of Georgian War Heroes. These sculptures, made by Georgian artist Giorgi Ochiauri in the 1980s, pay tribute to the many Georgian soldiers who have lost their lives. The statues were originally placed outside the Tomb of the Unknown Solider in Tbilisi, but were moved to Gori in 2009.

CLIMB TO THE GORI FORTRESS
A landmark of Gori is the Gori Fortress, an iconic piece of the Gori skyline situated on a rocky hill. The fortress was believed to be finished in the 13th century and has played a significant role in Georgian history for centuries. The walk to the top of the fortress is a short but steep trek from the Memorial of Georgian War Heroes, but offers weeping views of Gori nestled amongst the Caucasus.

RETURN TO TBILISI BY MARSHRUTKA
After exploring Gori, I returned back to Tbilisi by marshrutka from the Gori bus station. Note that the bus station is a ways outside the city center, so you’ll need to flag down or call a taxi, which should cost around 2 GEL. The ride costs 4 GEL and takes about 1.5-2 hours. Once back in Tbilisi, the van dropped us at the Didube Bus Station where I took the metro red line back to Liberty Square. Once back at my hostel, I packed my bags and prepared for my early flight the next day.