Is it Safe to Travel in Georgia in 2023? Let’s Talk About the Russo-Ukraine War

Let’s cut right to the chase: there’s one big factor that leaves many hesitant when it comes to Georgia travel in 2022, and that is the war in Ukraine. When asking the question of whether it’s safe to travel in Georgia right now, this is one big thing to consider.

I’ve solo traveled through many countries and consider myself fairly savvy when it comes to personal safety, but upon my trip to Georgia in September 2022 I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. It was my first time traveling to this part of the world, and knowing that Russia is Georgia’s northern neighbor, I wasn’t certain what the general consensus would be. As a woman traveling alone, I am no stranger to being wary for my own safety, but I was nervous to head to an area that is so connected to a war far too real for many people I know.

So is it safe to travel to Georgia in 2022? In this article, I’m going to share my honest thoughts about safety in Georgia, both in light of the war and in general as a woman traveling on her own. I encourage you to read with an open mind.

A Brief Background of the Russo-Ukraine War

In February of this year, Russian troops invaded Ukraine, challenging their right to statehood. In the months since, tens of thousands of people have lost their lives and Europe has experienced an overwhelming refugee crisis, with over 8 million people displaced from their homes and families. Globally, the war has led to food and petrol shortages and has sparked international conversation condemning the invasion. Many countries worldwide have pulled businesses from Russia and the United Nations publicly condemned the attacks, demanding full withdrawal of Russian forces. At the time of writing this article, there is an ongoing investigation from the International Criminal Court regarding war crimes in the 2022 invasion.

Formation and Dissolution of the Soviet Union

The Soviet Union was formed in 1922 by the Declaration and Treaty on the Creation of the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics, signed by parties from Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus. From 1922 to 1991, this transcontinental country was home to modern-day Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Estonia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, and Uzbekistan.

Even after the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, Russia and Ukraine maintained close ties. In 1994, Ukraine signed the Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty, agreeing to dismantle leftover nuclear weapons from the Soviet Union. In return, Russia agreed to the Budapest Memorandum, which upheld the territorial integrity of Ukraine. This post-Soviet era saw many other former union nations begin to join NATO, an intergovernmental military alliance currently compromised of 30 states.

The Beginnings of the War

In 2013, protests erupted in Ukraine’s capital city of Kyiv after Ukranian president Viktor Yanukovych decided not to sign a free trade agreement with the European Union, instead opting to continue ties with Russia and the Eurasian Economic Union. The protests grew so intense that in February 2014, Yanukovych fled Ukraine. Later that day, Ukrainian parliament voted unanimously to remove Yanukovych from office.

Russia quickly sided with Yanukovych, refusing to recognize Ukraine’s interim government, led by Arseniy Yatsenyuk. Relations soured even more when Yatsenyuk signed an EU association agreement, disbanding the Berkut — Ukraine’s system of special police. By the end of February and beginning of March 2014, Russian military personnel had intervened in Ukraine and Russia annexed the Crimean Peninsula on the southern coast of Ukraine. This annexation led to a wave of Russian nationalism, and a widespread desire to annex more Ukrainian land.

The 2022 Russian Invasion

After many years of tense relations, in March 2022 Russian military personnel began to gather by the Russo-Ukrainian border. Later that year, Russia began making accusations of Russophobia in Ukraine as well as making security demands to NATO and non-NATO allies in the European Union. This all culminated in the first missile attacks on Ukraine, which began at dawn on the morning of February 24, 2022. The Russian army attempted to siege Kyiv, but were unsuccessful.

At the time of writing, the war is still ongoing. No matter where you are in the world there are ways you can do your part to assist refugees in Ukraine. Click here to visit the website for UNHCR (the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees) and find ways you can help support those who have lost their homes and families in Ukraine.

Effect of the Russo-Ukraine War on Georgia

As a former member of the Soviet Union, evidence of Russian occupation is clear throughout Georgia. Soviet-era tractors dot the agricultural landscapes, Stalinist architecture lies nestled among the intricate Georgian balconies, and it’s not uncommon to find a photograph of Joseph Stalin for sale alongside rusty matchboxes and old books at the flea market.

Georgia’s History with Russia

At present, 20% of Georgian land is occupied by Russian military personnel. These occupied territories are located in the northern tip of Georgia along the Black Sea, known as South Ossetia and Abkhazia. This land has been occupied by the Russian military since the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991 and has been a point of contention in Russian and Georgian international relations ever since.

In August 2008, worsening relations came to a head and the Russo-Georgian war began. Russia falsely accused Georgia of genocide against South Ossetia, and Russian forces soon launched a full force invasion of Georgia. The war lasted for two months time, but displaced close to 200,000 people in the process. The aftermath also saw many ethnic Georgians killed or permanently displaced.

In the aftermath of the war, Georgian-Russian relations remained relatively unharmed. The countries have had no formal relations since 2008, but remain cordial when it comes to diplomacy.

The Georgian Response to Ukraine

Aftershocks of the invasion of Ukraine are everywhere in Georgia. Despite sharing their northern border with Russia, you can feel anti-Russian sentiments throughout the country, with Ukrainian flags hanging proudly in shop windows and off of balconies. Many local businesses are vocally sharing their support of Ukraine, and a memorial to Georgians who have lost their lives to the tragedy sits outside of the Parliament of Georgia on Tbilisi’s Rustaveli Avenue.

At present, Georgia has accepted over 20,000 Ukrainian refugees into the country and has been vocal in their opposition to the war. Pro-Ukrainian demonstrators have taken to the streets of many of Georgia’s major cities, and many civilians have been actively involved in humanitarian assistance towards those impacted by the war. Georgian financial institutions have imposed financial sanctions on the Russian Federation and many Georgian businesses have pulled out of Russian territory.

Does the War Impact Travel in Georgia?

At the time of writing, travel in Georgia is relatively unimpacted. Life operates as normal — public transportation is running, people rush to work and school, and people happily converse outside of corner cafes. Georgia is and continues to be a vibrant country filled with joyous and generous people at every turn. It is common to see Ukrainian flags in support of war efforts, but life in Georgia continues on.

Even in Kazbegi, a Georgian mountain-town I visited located only 12km from the Russian border, day to day life has not changed. While plenty of signs and menus are still displayed in the Russian language, if you currently hold a Russian passport I would urge you to travel elsewhere. Yes, Georgians will continue to be kind (the Georgian hospitality is REAL ya’ll!) but there is a general air of hostility towards Russia throughout Georgia, only heightened by the events in Ukraine. Some businesses have even taken it as far as refusal of service to Russian citizens.

Even before the war, travel to Russian-occupied South Ossetia and Abkhazia was heavily discouraged, as these areas are the center of civil unrest. At present, the US Department of State has a Level 4 Travel Advisory: Do Not Travel on Russian-occupied territories due to violence, criminal incidents, and threat of landmines. There is plenty to see in Georgia besides these occupied territories, and tourism in the region would not be ethical as it would directly support the Russian military.

The Importance of Understanding History

I don’t give you any of this history to scare you away from traveling in Georgia, but rather to offer a real understanding of the history, both past and present. Georgia does not shy away from transparency about their challenging history, but is also characterized by the resiliency, pride, and warmth of the Georgian people.

I think that to be a safe and ethical traveler in any country, taking the time to understand the country’s history is pertinent. Not only will it prepare you for conversations that may arise, but it will give you a deeper understanding and respect for the people and places you encounter. With Georgia as an example, I believe many people are turned off simply because they know it was a former Soviet nation. With a little research into Georgia’s history, it becomes clear that while the Soviet years still impact the country, Georgia has been striving for centuries to establish their own unique identity.

Especially in light of recent events, don’t let Georgia’s Stalinist-era architecture or Soviet tractors scare you. Rather, take the time to understand how Soviet-occupation impacted the country and how it has shaped a nation deeply proud of their identity. Above all, let history remind us that every country is made up of people, and stereotypes or actions of a government do not define the individuals who call that place home. I found this to be incredibly true during my time in Georgia — locals were not afraid to discuss the past, but eager for visitors to understand who the people of Georgia are, before, after, and even during Soviet occupation.

Georgia Safety Tips

While I consider Georgia a very safe place to travel, here are a few tips to consider if you’re planning a trip:

• Beware of pickpockets in popular tourist areas – While uncommon, there have been reports of pickpocketing scams in popular tourist spots like Old Tbilisi, so be aware and keep your belongings close. Photographers, I swear by this Tarion camera backpack for travel as it isn’t obvious while also offering back closure to protect your gear. I also recommend this lightweight Amazon Basics backpack as it has an inside pocket perfect for protecting your wallet and phone.
  
• Use apps to schedule reliable transportation – The Bolt Taxi app is the Uber of Georgia and is great for ordering safe and reliable rides around Georgia’s major cities. For longer rides around the country, schedule a trip with Go Trip GE. Simply make sure to book your trip a few days in advance to ensure driver availability.
  
• Purchase a Georgian SIM card – Having cellular data can be crucial in a pinch for calling taxis, using translator apps, or checking the weather. Purchase a Georgian SIM at the airport in Tbilisi or Kutaisi (between 30-100 GEL/ $10-$36 USD) or visit a local branch in the city (10-30 GEL/$3-$10 USD) Here’s a great article explaining everything you need to know about Georgian SIM cards.
  
• Check weather conditions before trekking – Weather in Georgia can change quickly, so make sure to check ahead of time before departing on an outdoor adventure. Especially in the higher Caucasus mountains, weather conditions can change from sunshine to snow in a matter of minutes. Having a reliable rain jacket is essential for travel in Georgia.
  
• Buy travel insurance – Safety Wing is my go-to insurance as a traveler and American living abroad. It is incredibly affordable and covers trips throughout multiple countries, meaning no matter where you travel and for how long you’ll be covered.
  
• Be aware of the bar scam – I had a man approach me outside of a metro station in Tbilisi and try to invite me for coffee. While I’ve definitely had plenty of coffee with strangers, I had a strange feeling in my gut and declined. I later learned this is a scam that sometimes occurs in the city — a local invites you for coffee/drinks/food, takes you to a “local spot,” and then forces you to pay an exorbitantly high bill. While this is usually true for bars, the scam can take place over coffee/food as well. Always trust your intuition in these types of situations.

For more travel safety tips, check out my article on My Top 20 Travel Safety Essentials.

Final Thoughts: Is it Safe to Travel in Georgia in 2022?

All of my hesitations vanished as soon as I set foot in Tbilisi and experienced the joy of Georgia. It is a country that can only be described as vibrant, home to people proud of their identities and with a deep love for the cultures and traditions that uniquely define what it means to be Georgian. Based on my experiences, it is absolutely safe to travel to Georgia at present, and as my favorite country in Europe I cannot encourage you to do so enough.

I felt incredibly safe during my time solo-traveling in Georgia. As a solo female traveler I have a few safety rules I live by — not walking alone at night, never accepting drinks from strangers, the like — and these are as true in Georgia as in most other places. However, even in the bustling city of Tbilisi I felt safe walking around by myself, most times even with my camera around my neck. Georgian people are known for their hospitality, and I found this to be true again and again as people helped me with directions, shared their local recommendations, or served me heaping plates of Georgian dishes.

As always, use your common sense, but also embrace the warmth and welcoming nature of Georgia. I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Please note: As this article discusses a situation that is rapidly changing, I will be updating it if any major events alter what is written here. If you notice something that needs updating, please send me an email at brokenbootstravel@gmail.com

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