Vichada: 12 Hours on a Boat to Colombia’s Most Isolated Department

Colombia’s far eastern plains are one of the most isolated places in the world. Sparse communities dot the seemingly endless plains, connected by winding dusty roads or hour-long river boats. Which is exactly how I ended up on a 12-hour boat down the Meta River, on my way to Vichada’s capital city of Puerto Carreño.

In case you’re wondering — no, there was no bathroom on the boat. From sunrise to sunset we rode down the river, not a town in sight, the vastness of the department becoming clearer with every hour we clocked on the boat. Finally we reached the shores of Puerto Nariño, where the Meta and Orinoco rivers meet.

I was just in time for Vichada’s biggest celebration of the year — El Corrío Llanero. This festival brings together everything there is to love about the Colombian llanos in the truest heart of the plains, from the music to the food to the coleo (Colombian-style rodeo!) In a culture where so much of the culture has been shaped by isolation, by big skies and vast plains and a reliance on the land, it was incredible to see people come together from every corner to celebrate it all.

So join me on a journey down the Meta River — from the comfort of your own bed! Trust me, you can take as many bathroom breaks as you need to.

More About Vichada

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In my journey to visit all 32 departments of Colombia I’ve written extensively about the different places I’ve traveled and people I’ve met. Click below to view all of my guides, stories, and tips from my travels around Colombia.

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