La Comuna 13 is a can’t-miss activity on any trip to Medellín, Colombia. The neighborhood is known for its colorful murals and lively street performers, but La Comuna represents much more – it’s a living testament to the transformation and growth of the city of Medellín.
I would argue a visit to La Comuna is a vital part of any trip to the city – and not just for the Instagram ops. It’s one of the best neighborhoods to visit to better understand the history of Medellín, and arguably one of the very best things to do in Colombia. The neighborhood is not just a tourist attraction, it’s a living piece of Medellín’s story, past and present.
But why should you trust me? Well, I’m currently on a mission to explore all 32 departments of Colombia, and San Javier (also known as La Comuna 13) is actually my home base. So I’ve been in and out of the neighborhood countless times, spoken with its locals, and explored all the corners of the neighborhood.
So in this guide, I’ll break down everything you need to know to visit La Comuna 13 responsibly, based on my lived experience.
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Looking to spend more time in Colombia? Check out my extensive 3-week guide!
A Brief History of La Comuna 13
These days, San Javier – otherwise known as La Comuna 13 – looks like any other bustling neighborhood. Street vendors sell empanadas de queso smothered in leche condensada, children in school uniforms play in the corner parks, and old paisa men wander the streets, their aguadeño hats a city staple.
But la Comuna 13 was once the most dangerous neighborhood in Colombia. Overrun by cartels and paramilitaries, the barrio once looked much different – a place no tourist dared go. It’s estimated that a life was lost nearly every day in the comuna during the peak years of violence as the Medellín Cartel – spearheaded by the infamous Pablo Escobar – ran rampant through the streets of la comuna.
But how did Comuna 13 get this way? The neighborhood is historically home to immigrants, who came from rural areas of Antioquia to escape armed conflict. However, this displacement only made the community more susceptible to offers from gang members involved in drug trafficking and smuggling.
For years, the neighborhood was a war zone. In 2002, the Colombian military intervened in an attempt to wipe out the guerilla forces, but the operations resulted in violent, catastrophic outcomes. Perhaps the most infamous of these operations was Operación Orion. Helicopters shot bullets from the air for 3 days, killing innocent civilians hiding in their homes. While the “official” death toll of the operation is just under 20, residents of the community say there were many more unreported.
However, a lot has changed since the era of violence in Comuna 13. In 2006, a metro cable was built, integrating the comuna with other communities in the city. A few years later, the city invested over 3.5 million dollars into an outdoor, covered escalator system, turning a previously 25 minute walk from top to bottom into 6 minutes.
Street artists also began to take over the neighborhood, covering its walls with stories of the community. These days, tourists flock in the masses to see the transformation of the neighborhood, and La Comuna 13 has become a living representation of the transformation of Medellín.
The Best Comuna 13 Tours
If you plan to visit La Comuna 13, I highly recommend visiting with a local guide who can share the stories of the neighborhood with respect (or even personal experience). Here are some of the best Comuna 13 walking tours.
🧢 Zippy Tours – These free walking tour of La Comuna are all led by local guides, many of whom grew up in the neighborhood themselves. Tours are available in both English and Spanish and depart twice daily. Recommended donation is $12-$15 USD per person.
🎨Comuna 13 Graffiti Tour – If you’re interested in learning about the history and meaning behind the murals in La Comuna 13, this tour is for you! This tour also includes a cable car ride to see the neighborhood from above.
🍔Visit Medellín Tours – This tour includes a tour of La Comuna 13 with a local, as well as the opportunity to sample local street foods in the neighborhood. It’s a great way to experience the paisa culture in a truly local way!
Find all tour offerings for La Comuna 13 on GetYourGuide.
Things to Know Before Visiting La Comuna 13
Whether you’re opting to explore on your own or join a guided tour, here are a few things to know before visiting La Comuna 13.
Can you Visit La Comuna 13 Without a Guide?
Yes, you can visit La Comuna 13 without a guide, but I HIGHLY encourage you to invest in a guided visit. Without the history and context of the neighborhood, it’s hard to grasp the true significance of the transformation of la comuna. Visiting with a guide also helps support the local community, meaning your money directly impacts local businesses, tours, and residents of the neighborhood.
How to Get to La Comuna 13
La Comuna 13 is completely accessible by public transportation, located in the westernmost part of the city of Medellín. To get to the neighborhood, first take the Medellín Metro to the San Javier stop – the final stop on the orange line. Many walking tours begin at the metro station, and your guide will show you the way to the comuna.
If you’re opting to visit on your own, simply walk up the hill from the metro station to the Veinte de Julio neighborhood, where you’ll find the main tourist attractions in la comuna.
Visiting Medellín, Colombia? Check out my extensive hotel guide to decide where to stay in the city!
There’s a Lot of Walking Involved
While the escaleras electricas have improved the accessibility of La Comuna 13, there’s still a lot of walking, and stairs, involved in a visit to the neighborhood. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes and pack plenty of water for the uphill trek. I also recommend bringing a lightweight rain jacket or umbrella – the weather can be unpredictable in Medellín!
If you have any mobility issues, please make sure to let your guide know beforehand. Guides know the neighborhood in and out, and can help recommend a revised tour if needed.
Visit in the Morning
La Comuna 13 has quickly become one of the top things to do in Medellín, but the result is increasingly growing crowds. The best time to visit La Comuna 13 is in the morning to bypass the majority of the crowds, as well as avoid the mid-afternoon heat of Medellín. Join a tour that leaves in the morning, or consider booking a private tour of the comuna to have a more flexible schedule.
Have limited time in Medellín? You can still make a visit to Comuna 13 a priority! Check out my 24-hour guide to the city for more ideas!
Is it Safe to Visit La Comuna 13?
Despite its history and former reputation, La Comuna 13 is now safe for visitors. Significant improvements have been made to the safety of the neighborhood and infrastructure is in place to protect both locals and visitors. It’s safe to visit on a guided tour, or even a self-guided tour if you chose.
However, like visiting anywhere in Colombia, I encourage you to exercise common sense when visiting La Comuna 13. Go during the daylight hours, avoid flashy jewelry or clothes, and as always, be respectful of the locals.
Visit Ethically and Responsibly
La Comuna 13 is home to a heavy history, so it’s important to visit ethically and responsibly. A visit to La Comuna 13 can be one of the best ways to support ethical tourism in Medellín, but only if your visit is intentional and respectful. This is not the time to participate in Narco Tourism, but rather an opportunity to embrace the transformation of Medellín.
Before your visit, educate yourself about the history and context of the neighborhood, even if you’re planning a guided tour. Make sure to always tip your guides – I recommend tipping directly when possible to ensure your guide receives your money.
While visiting, as always, be mindful of your impact as a tourist in marginalized communities. Avoid exploitative photography, respect the privacy of locals, and be kind and respectful at all times. Remember – people still live in this neighborhood, many for their whole lives, and have experienced the trauma of its violent past. Be courteous in your interactions with locals and guides alike.
You’ll See Pablo Escobar Around
Despite his role in the violence of La Comuna 13, you’ll see plenty of iconography of Pablo Escobar around. From t-shirts to street artists posing as El Padrón, there’s certainly no shortage of memorabilia to one of Colombia’s most infamous icons. This is unfortunately due to a rise of Narcotourism – a response to many people traveling to Medellín intrigued by the legacy of Escobar.
While you may have binged all the seasons of Narcos, I encourage you to not engage with any Pablo Escobar related memorabilia in la comuna. For many locals of the neighborhood, and residents of Medellín, Escobar represents an extremely violent and traumatic period of Colombian history. To engage with Narcotourism in La Comuna 13 is to disrespect the core message of the neighborhood – transformation through resilience.
The Best Things to do in La Comuna 13
There’s plenty to see and do in La Comuna 13. Here are some of the top things I recommend, whether you’re visiting solo or on a guided tour.
Explore the Vibrant Street Art
Comuna 13 is known for its colorful murals and street art, often telling the stories of the neighborhood and community. You’ll see murals with depictions of Operation Orion, staple elements of paisa culture, and key landscapes and symbols of Colombia.
If you’re interested in learning more about specific murals and history, I highly recommend joining a graffiti-focused tour with a local guide to gain more knowledge about these works of art.
Love street art? Check out my guide to the town of Guatapé, one of the best day trips from Medellín and often considered Colombia’s most colorful town for it’s unique street art.
Ride the Outdoor Escalators
Comuna 13 is known for its outdoor escalators. Many credit these escalators as playing a vital role in the transformation of the neighborhood, as they drew tourists from outside for their novelty. These days, you can ride the escalators all the way to the Viaducto, a walking path lined with shops, delicious street food, and street performers above the neighborhood.
Enjoy Street Performances
Colombians love to celebrate, and La Comuna 13 is a living example of it! Street performers take to the streets of Comuna 13 every day, from dance crews to musicians. It’s hard to explore the neighborhood without running into a crew or two performing for a crowd of onlookers.
If you do stay to watch a performance, please consider tipping the performers. Many come from the comuna itself, so this is a great way to give back directly to the community.
Taste Local Colombian Food
The streets of Comuna 13 are lined with vendors selling delicious Colombian specialities, from cheesy arepas de queso to deep-fried papa rellena. The comuna is also a great place to try some of the local fruits endemic to the region – consider a tangy jugo de maracuya or sampling the infamous chontaduro from the Pacific region.
The comuna is also home to a number of restaurants serving Colombian dishes. Grab a menu del día with a view of the comuna, or try bandeja paisa, the ultimate Colombian meal. And of course, wash it all down with a cup of delicious Colombian coffee.
Visit Community Shops and Galleries
Comuna 13 is full of galleries and shops featuring the work of local artists in the community. Visiting these galleries, or making a purchase, is a great way to give back to the locals in the neighborhood and support independent artists. Plus, you can pick up some souvenirs for friends and family back home!
Even if you don’t plan to make a purchase, there are plenty of galleries to check out! One of the most unique is Casa Neón, an interactive art gallery featuring neon paintings on the walls. Visitors are given 3D glasses upon arrival to truly make for a unique experience.
Comuna 13 – A Story of Hope Through Art
La Comuna 13 represents a story of hope, transformation, and resilience. The power of art can be seen in every corner of the neighborhood, from its street performers to its colorful murals. The community stands as a symbol of the rebirth of the city of Medellín and bold hopes for the future.
I hope this Comuna 13 travel guide encourages you to visit the neighborhood with awareness and respect, but also with an open mind. There are so many different stories to be told throughout the comuna, and engaging with its history is not only one of the best ways to gain a deeper understanding of Medellín, but Colombia as a whole.
Want to explore more of the stories of the region? Check out my guide to the best day trips from Medellín!
Medellín Video
Want to learn more about the history and stories of Medellín, including an interview with a friend of mine who grew up in La Comuna 13? Check out this video I made all about the city, and don’t forget to follow along as I explore all 32 departments of Colombia!
Keep Exploring Colombia
Colombia is a country rich in biodiversity, resilience, and beauty. From the colonial streets of Cartagena to the rolling hills of the coffee region, there’s plenty to explore in el pais de la belleza.
Only have a short time to spend in Colombia? Check out my one-week guide to the eje cafetero, my one-week guide to the Caribbean coast, or my city-focused itinerary of Medellín and Bogotá to get started! Or check out all my Colombia articles to gain inspo for your next trip!
Find the perfect place to stay in Medellín on Booking.com or check out my full guide to where to stay in the city to start planning your trip!
What to Pack for Colombia
Planning a trip to Colombia? Consider adding some of these essentials to your suitcase or check out my ultimate Colombia packing guide!
💧 Filtered Water Bottle – Save on the single-use plastic and protect from parasites!
🧥 Heavy-Duty Rain Jacket – For the ever-changing Colombian weather!
🎒 Anti-theft Backpack – Perfect for exploring big cities or trekking in the jungle
🧖♀️ Microfiber Travel Towel – A go-to travel essential anywhere in the world!
🔌 Portable Charger – Keep your phone charged out on the go
🔐 Mini Padlock – Perfect for securing your backpack or locking up your items at the hotel
🔋 Universal Travel Adapter – Charge all your devices anywhere in the world!
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Virginia Taylor (Ginna) is a travel writer and photographer exploring the world until her boots wear through. She’s currently on a mission to explore all 32 departments of Colombia, though she formerly called the Middle East home. Want to know more? Visit the About Page.